Watch buying guide
A watch is one of the few things a person buys that may last a lifetime — and in some cases, be passed on. The range of options is enormous, from affordable quartz pieces to complex mechanical movements that take months to make. Understanding the key factors narrows the field considerably.
Brand
Brand plays a larger role in watch buying than in most other purchases. The name on the dial carries associations — heritage, craftsmanship, and recognition — that shape how a watch is perceived and what it costs to own.
A key distinction in the trade is between brands that manufacture their own movements and those that use movements supplied by specialist movement makers. In-house movements are generally considered more prestigious and are reflected in the price. The quality of a supplied movement varies considerably — some are highly regarded; others are more commodity.
Resale value is also tied closely to brand. Watches from a small number of highly recognised names hold their value well; some appreciate over time. Most watches, regardless of brand, depreciate from their retail price once purchased. If resale value matters to you, it is worth researching how specific references from a given brand have performed in the pre-owned market before buying.
Movement types
The movement is the mechanism inside the watch that measures and displays time. There are three main types.
Powered by a battery and regulated by the vibration of a quartz crystal. Highly accurate, requires minimal maintenance. A battery replacement every one to three years is typically all that is needed.
A mechanical movement powered by the motion of the wearer's wrist. A rotor winds the mainspring as you move. No battery required. Left unworn, the watch will run down and need to be reset. Service intervals are typically every three to five years.
A mechanical movement wound by hand rather than wrist movement. The wearer turns the crown daily or every few days to maintain the mainspring. Associated with traditional watchmaking and high complications.
The choice between quartz and mechanical is partly practical and partly personal. Quartz is more accurate and lower maintenance. Mechanical watches — automatic or manual — are valued for their craftsmanship, the visible movement through an exhibition caseback, and the character of a living mechanism on the wrist.
Case size and materials
Watch cases are measured in diameter in millimetres. Most men's watches fall between 36mm and 44mm; most women's between 26mm and 36mm, though these conventions have loosened considerably. Diameter alone doesn't tell the full story — lug-to-lug distance (the measurement from the top lug to the bottom lug) determines how the watch sits on the wrist, and case thickness affects how it wears under a cuff.
Stainless steel is the most common case material — durable, corrosion-resistant, and used across most price points. Gold (yellow, white, or rose) is found in dress and luxury watches. Titanium is lighter than steel and hypoallergenic. Ceramic is extremely scratch-resistant but more brittle. Some watches combine materials — a steel case with a ceramic bezel, for instance. The crystal — the transparent cover over the dial — is either mineral glass, which scratches relatively easily, or sapphire crystal, which is far harder and used in most quality watches.
Complications
A complication is any function of a watch beyond the display of hours and minutes. Some are practical; others are technical achievements valued for their own sake.
The most common complication, displayed through an aperture in the dial. An annual calendar corrects automatically for months of different lengths except February; a perpetual calendar accounts for leap years too.
A stopwatch function operated by pushers on the side of the case. The chronograph seconds hand runs independently of the main timekeeping display.
Displays a second time zone via a fourth hand pointing to a 24-hour scale on the bezel or dial. Useful for frequent travellers.
Displays the current phase of the moon through an aperture in the dial. An aesthetic complication associated with dress and traditional watchmaking.
Shows how much energy remains in the mainspring. Particularly useful in manual-wind watches so the wearer knows when to wind.
A rotating cage housing the escapement, designed to counteract the effects of gravity on timekeeping. Exceptionally difficult to make; associated with high watchmaking.
Straps and bracelets
A watch is worn on either a bracelet — made from the same or similar material as the case — or a strap in a different material. Integrated bracelets are designed specifically for the case and form a cohesive unit with the watch. Most other watches have standard lugs that accept interchangeable straps.
Leather straps are traditional and suit dress watches; quality varies significantly. Rubber and silicone straps are common in sport and diving watches. NATO straps — woven nylon straps threaded under the watch — are casual and practical. Most straps are interchangeable using the correct lug width, making it straightforward to change the look and feel of a watch.
Water resistance
Water resistance ratings are frequently misunderstood. The stated rating refers to static pressure tested in controlled conditions — not the pressure generated by movement in water. A watch rated to 30m is not suitable for swimming.
| Rating | Suitable for |
|---|---|
| 30m / 3 ATM | Splash and rain only. Not suitable for swimming. |
| 50m / 5 ATM | Swimming in shallow water. Not for diving or snorkelling. |
| 100m / 10 ATM | Swimming and snorkelling. |
| 200m / 20 ATM | Recreational scuba diving. |
| 300m+ | Serious diving use. |
Water resistance can degrade over time as seals age. A watch rated to 50m when new may no longer meet that standard after years of use without a pressure test. If water resistance matters for how you intend to wear a watch, it is worth having it tested periodically by a watchmaker.
New vs pre-owned
Pre-owned watches often offer access to discontinued references, better value at equivalent specification, and the appeal of a watch with history. The market for quality pre-owned watches is well established.
When buying pre-owned, condition is the primary consideration. Check the case for excessive polishing — which softens the original lines and finishing — the dial for moisture marks, fading, or damage, and ask about recent servicing. Box and papers (the original packaging and documentation) add provenance and affect resale value, though many fine watches change hands without them.
For a significant purchase, an independent inspection by a watchmaker before buying is reasonable — they can assess the movement's condition and identify any work required.
