What to expect when visiting a jeweller

Browsing and buying from stock

For most purchases, no appointment is needed — walking in is fine. A jeweller will typically greet you, ask what you are looking for, and show you relevant pieces. Try things on freely; that is what they are there for. A good jeweller will show a piece in different lights and will not push you toward a decision.

If you want to look around without being assisted, say so. If you have specific questions — about a stone, a hallmark, whether something can be altered — ask them. These are exactly the conversations a jeweller is well placed to have.

Taking time to think is entirely reasonable. Most jewellers are accustomed to customers returning after reflection, and a good one will not pressure you into a decision on the day.

Sizing and fitting

Ring sizing is quick and can usually be done on the spot. A jeweller will use a set of sizing rings to find your size, and may also measure the specific finger you intend to wear the ring on — fingers vary, and the dominant hand is often slightly larger. If you already own rings, bringing one that fits the relevant finger gives a useful starting point.

Watch strap and bracelet adjustments — removing links, swapping a strap, fitting a new clasp — are also usually done in-store and take a short time. Bring the watch or bracelet with you; adjustments are fitted to the individual wrist.

Repairs and alterations

For repairs and alterations, you will need to leave the piece with the jeweller. Before agreeing to any work, ask for a quote — a reputable jeweller will provide one before starting, and will not proceed without your agreement. The quote should cover what work will be done, the cost, and the expected turnaround time.

Turnaround times vary depending on the complexity of the work and how busy the workshop is. Simple repairs — re-tipping a prong, replacing a clasp — may take a few days. Re-shanking a ring or a more involved alteration may take longer. Ask at the outset so you know what to expect.

It is reasonable to ask whether the piece is insured while it is with the jeweller. Most reputable jewellers hold trade insurance that covers items left for work, but it is worth confirming for pieces of significant value.

Valuations

There are two distinct types of valuation, and it is important to be clear about which you need.

• —Insurance valuation — an assessment of the cost to replace the piece with a new equivalent at current market prices. This figure is typically higher than what you paid or what you could sell it for, and is what insurers use to calculate cover.
• —Market valuation — an assessment of what the piece would realistically sell for. Relevant if you are considering selling or need to divide an estate.

A valuation involves examining the piece in detail — assessing the metal, stones, condition, and construction. Bring any documentation you have: original receipts, certificates, previous valuations. These help the valuer establish provenance and may influence the assessment.

A written valuation document should include a full description of the piece, the metal and stones, the valuer's qualifications and signature, and the date. The date matters because replacement costs change — insurance valuations should be updated every three to five years.

For coloured stones and significant diamonds, look for a valuer who holds a gemmological qualification such as the FGA (Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain), which covers stone identification and grading.

Commissioning a bespoke piece

Commissioning is a more involved process and almost always starts with an appointment. Before you go, think about what you want and what you want to spend — even a rough idea of both helps the conversation start in the right place. Bring any inspiration: photographs, sketches, a piece you already own that has elements you like. If you have stones you want to incorporate, bring those too.

The process typically runs in stages: an initial conversation to establish the brief, a design stage (often a sketch or CAD rendering for approval), and then making. You will usually be asked to approve the design before work begins, and to pay a deposit at that point. The deposit is standard practice and covers the jeweller's time and materials committed to your piece.

Timelines vary depending on the complexity of the piece and how busy the jeweller is. A straightforward commission might be ready in four to six weeks; something more complex can take longer. Agree a timeline at the outset and ask what happens if it changes.

Getting a second opinion or assessment

Jewellers are regularly asked to assess pieces that were not bought from them — a pre-purchase appraisal before committing to a significant buy, an identification of an unknown stone, or a condition check on a vintage or antique piece before buying.

This is a normal and reasonable request. A jeweller with the right expertise can tell you whether a stone matches its grading certificate, identify a stone whose type is uncertain, assess whether a vintage piece has been altered or repaired, and give an opinion on condition and whether the asking price is reasonable.

For a pre-purchase appraisal, you may need to bring the piece in — or, in some cases, the seller may allow a jeweller to examine it at their premises. For straightforward identifications, a short visit is often all that is needed. For a detailed written condition report, allow more time and expect to pay for the assessment.