Jewellery alterations

Ring resizing

Resizing is one of the most common jewellery alterations and is straightforward on most plain metal rings and simple solitaire settings. A jeweller removes a small section of the shank to reduce the size, or adds metal to increase it.

Some rings are more difficult or impossible to resize without risk to the piece:

• —Full eternity rings — stones set all the way around leave no plain metal to work with. Resizing one risks damaging or losing stones.
• —Channel-set bands — the channel structure can be disrupted by resizing, shifting stones out of alignment.
• —Platinum — can be resized but requires specialist equipment and skill; not every jeweller works in platinum.
• —Large size changes — going up or down more than two sizes puts the shank under strain and can alter the shape of the ring. Most jewellers advise caution beyond this.

If a ring cannot be resized, a jeweller may suggest alternatives — ring size adjusters, a sizing bar soldered inside the shank, or in some cases remaking the shank entirely.

Re-tipping and re-shanking

Prongs wear down over time, particularly on rings worn daily. A worn prong eventually fails to hold its stone securely. Re-tipping adds metal to the tip of an existing prong to restore its grip — a routine, inexpensive repair. If the prong has worn too far, it will need to be replaced entirely.

The shank — the band of a ring — is the part that takes the most wear. A shank that has thinned or cracked can be re-shanked: the worn section is cut away and replaced with new metal. This restores the structural integrity of the ring without disturbing the head or setting.

Stone replacement

Stones chip, crack, or come loose and are lost. Replacing them is often straightforward if the setting is intact. A jeweller sources a stone of the correct size and cut, sets it, and secures the prongs.

Finding an exact match in colour and quality for a coloured stone — particularly a sapphire or ruby — can be harder than replacing a diamond. For vintage pieces with stones of unusual cuts, sourcing a match may take time.

Upgrading a stone is also possible — keeping the existing setting and replacing the stone with one of higher quality or a different shape. Whether the setting will accommodate a different stone depends on its design; a jeweller can advise.

Remodelling and repurposing

Inherited jewellery is often unworn not because it lacks value but because it no longer suits. Remodelling takes the stones or metal from an existing piece and uses them in something new — a brooch converted into a pendant, stones from a cluster ring reset as a pair of earrings, a collection of mismatched pieces combined into a single new one.

The cost depends on the complexity of the new design and the amount of new metal needed. Before commissioning, a jeweller will assess what the original piece can yield — stones that can be reused, metal that can be melted and refined. Not all old metal is reusable in its refined form; some is better set against the cost of new metal.

Re-plating

White gold is naturally a slightly warm grey colour — the bright white finish comes from a rhodium plating applied at manufacture. With wear, particularly on ring shanks, this plating gradually wears away to reveal the underlying metal. Re-plating restores the finish and is a routine, inexpensive process.

How often re-plating is needed depends on how the piece is worn. A white gold ring worn daily may need re-plating every one to two years. Rose gold and yellow gold are not plated and do not need this treatment.

Engraving

Engraving can be added to most plain metal surfaces — the inside of a ring shank, the back of a pendant, a watch case back. Most jewellers work with machine engraving; hand engraving produces a more characterful result and is better suited to curved or irregular surfaces.

The main constraint is surface area — there needs to be enough flat, plain metal to accommodate the text or design. Ring shanks can typically hold a short personal message; very narrow shanks may only accommodate initials and a date.

Converting

Several common conversions are straightforward for a skilled jeweller:

• —Clip-on to pierced earrings — the clip mechanism is removed and a post and butterfly fitting soldered in its place. Usually a minor job if the earring back is large enough to work with.
• —Brooch to pendant — a bail is added to the back or top of the piece so it can be hung from a chain. The pin mechanism may be removed or left in place.
• —Adding a bail to a stone — a loose stone or a stone in a setting without a chain attachment can have a bail fitted, converting it into a pendant.
• —Lengthening or shortening a chain — links can be added or removed to adjust chain length.

Safety chains

A safety chain is a short secondary chain that runs alongside the clasp of a necklace or bracelet. If the main clasp fails or opens unexpectedly, the safety chain keeps the piece on rather than losing it.

They are particularly worth considering for pieces of significant value or sentimental importance, and for bracelets — which are more exposed to snagging than necklaces. Most jewellers can add one to any piece with a suitable clasp. The chain itself is discreet and barely visible when worn.

On watches, a safety chain — sometimes called a fob chain — attaches between the case and the bracelet or strap, serving the same purpose if the clasp releases under pressure.

What to ask before commissioning work

• —What exactly will be done, and what are the risks to the piece?
• —Will the original hallmark be affected? If new metal is added, will the piece need to be re-hallmarked?
• —What happens to any original material — stones or metal — not used in the final piece?
• —Is the work covered by insurance while it is with the jeweller?
• —What is the turnaround time?